Τίτλος – Title
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Βιταμίνες Α και C: H Αξία και η Απόδοσή τους στα Καλλυντικά Προϊόντα Vitamins Α and C: Their Value as Components of Biologically Active Cosmeceuticals |
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Συγγραφέας – Author
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Κωνσταντίνα Θεοδωροπούλου1, Βασιλική Κεφαλά2 1Πτυχιούχος Αισθητικός – Κοσμητολόγος, 2Καθηγήτρια Τμήματος Αισθητικής και Κοσμητολογίας, Σχολή Επαγγελμάτων Υγείας και Πρόνοιας, Τεχνολογικό Εκπαιδευτικό Ίδρυμα (ΤΕΙ) Αθήνας, Αιγάλεω, Αθήνα, Ελλάς K. Theodoropoulou1, V. Kefala2 1Aesthetician-Cosmetologist, MSc, 2Prof. Department of Aesthetics and Cosmetology, School of Health and Caring Professions, Technological Educational Institution of Athens, Ag. Spyridonos Str., GR-12210 Egaleo, Athens, Hellas |
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Παραπομπή – Citation
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Θεοδωροπούλου,Κ., Κεφαλά,Β. : Βιταμίνες Α και C: H Αξία και η Απόδοσή τους στα Καλλυντικά Προϊόντα , Επιθεώρηση Κλιν. Φαρμακολ. Φαρμακοκινητ. 30: 9-14 (2012) Theodoropoulou,K., Kefala,V. : Vitamins Α and C: Their Value as Components of Biologically Active Cosmeceuticals, Epitheorese Klin. Farmakol. Farmakokinet. 30: 9-14 (2012) |
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Ημερομηνία Δημοσιευσης – Publication Date
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20 Ιουνίου 2012 – 2012-06-20
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Γλώσσα Πλήρους Κειμένου –
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Ελληνικά – Greek |
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Λέξεις κλειδιά – Keywords
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Βιταμίνη Α παλμιτική, βιταμίνη Α οξική, τετραεξυλδέκυλο ασκορβικό οξύ, Φωσφορικό νάτριο ασκορβικού οξέος
Vitamin A palmitate, vitamin Α acetate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate
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Λοιποί Όροι – Other Terms
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Άρθρο Article |
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Περίληψη – Summary
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Η προσθήκη βιταμινών, στις κατάλληλες ποσότητες, στα καλλυντικά προϊόντα μπορεί να ενισχύσει την απόδοση των προϊόντων αυτών, με αποτέλεσμα τη βελτίωση της εμφάνισης του δέρματος. Τόσο η βιταμίνη C, όσο και η βιταμίνη Α, χρησιμοποιείται ευρύτατα στην Κοσμητολογία. Η βιταμίνη Α βοηθά στη συγκράτηση υγρασίας από την επιδερμίδα, την αντιμετώπιση της ακμής και της χαλάρωσης των ιστών, δραστηριοποιεί τη λειτουργία των κυττάρων και ενισχύει την άμυνα της επιδερμίδας ενάντια στις δερματικές παθήσεις. Η βιταμίνη C χρησιμοποιείται ως αντιοξειδωτικό, ωστόσο, η κύρια δράση της εκδηλώνεται στη σύνθεση του κολλαγόνου και της ελαστίνης, καθώς και στην τόνωση της μικρο-κυκλοφορίας των κυττάρων τους. The value of vitamins is a controversial subject, as far as skin health is concerned. Under no circumstances, should they replace cosmetical products, but may only be applied and act synergistically. Controlled studies are difficult to conduct, given they might violate the rights of human participants. Ideally, such a study would consist of a series of sections, evaluating each vitamin studied separately. Participants in each of those sections would be subjected to a diet devoid of a vitamin so that the progressive effects of deficiency on the skin and general health might be observed. That vitamin would then be reintroduced in low escalating doses so as to determine the minimum amount required for health. Ultimately the dose would be pushed higher to observe the effects of toxicity and determine the (minimal) toxic dose. This procedure should have been conducted for all vitamins and anti-oxidants, but the ethical problems with such human research are obvious, making them impossible to conduct efficiently. The newest trend in skin care is the use of diet and oral supplements producing an anti-aging effect. This approach to antiaging is termed the inside-out approach, because oral food supplements and topical agents are synergistically combined enhancing the effect. Vitamins are necessary in the diet to allow the body to function, but the concept that ingesting large quantities of these substances or applying them topically to the skin results in enhanced health benefits has never been confirmed. This inside-out approach has led to the developing of a new product category labeled the nutricosmetic. Cosmeceutical was coined to define products that were classified as cosmetics, yet attempted to deliver benefits more along the line of a pharmaceutical. Nutraceutical describes oral supplements that claim to give different results beyond a traditional vitamin tablet. Nutricosmetic describes the synergistic use of oral and topical agents to improve skin appearance. This paper examines the use of nutriation to enhance youthful-appearing skin. The current references in the area are included, but much of the material presented is not well studied. The use of nutricosmetics is supported by testimonial, assumption, inference, and vague language. |
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Αναφορές – References
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1. Arct J., Pytokowska K.: Flavonoids as components of biologically active cosmeceuticals. Clin. Dermatol. 26: 347-357 (2008)
2. Boyera N., Galey , Bernard B.A.: Effect of vitamin C and its derivatives on collagen synthesis and cross-linking by normal human fibroblasts. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 20: 151-158 (1998) 3. Cashman K.D.: Calcium and vitamin D. Novartis Food Symp. 282:123-138 (2007) 4. Cossins E.,Lee R., Packer L. : ESR studies of vitamin C regeneration of reactivity of natural source phytochemical preparations. Mol. Biol. 45: 583-598 (1998) 5. Duarte T.L., Cooke M.S., Jones G.D.: Gene expression profiling reveals new protective roles for vitamin C in human cells. Free Radic. Biol. Med. 46: 78-87 (2009 6. Espinal-Perez L.E., Moncada B., Castanedo-Cazares J.P.: A double blind randomized trial of 5% ascorbic acid vs 4% hydroquinone in melasma. Int .J. Dermatol. 43: 604-607 (2004) 7. Hussein G., Sankawa , Goto H., Matsumoto K.: Astaxanthin: a carotenoid with potential in human health and nutriation. J. Nat. Prod. 69: 443-449 (2006) 8. Idson B.: Vitamins and the skin. Toilet. 108: 79-92 (1993) 9. Igarashi A., Uzuka M., Nakajima K.: The effects of vitamin E deficiency on rat skin. J. Dermatol. 121: 43-49 (2006) 10. Kafi R., Swak H.S., Schumacher W.E. et al.: Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Dermatol. 143: 606-612 (2007) 11. Kameyama K., et al.: Inhibitory effects of magnesium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate on melanogenesis in vitro and in vivo. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 34: 29-33 (1996) 12. Katiyar S.K.: Silymarin and skin cancer prevention: anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and immunomodulatory effects. J. Oncol. 26: 169-176 (2005) 13. Kunnumakkara A.B., Anand P.: Curcumin inhibits proliferation invasion, angiogenesis and metastasis of different cancers through interaction with multiple cell signaling proteins. Cancer Lett. 269: 199-225 (2008) 14. Lu Z., Chen T.C., Ahang A., et al.: An evaluation of the vitamin D3 content in fish. Steroid Biochem. Mol. Biol. 103: 642-644 (2007) 15. Pacheco-Palencia L.A., Noratto G., Hingorani L., Talcott S.T., Mertens-Talcott S.U.: Protective effects of standardized pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) polyphenolic extract in ultraviolet-irradiated human skin fibroblasts. Agric. Food Chem. 56: 8434-8441 (2008) 16. Sakai, Kogiso M.: Soy isoflavones and immunity. J. Med. Invest. 55: 167-173 (2008) 17. Schauber J., Gallo R.L.: The vitamin D pathway: a new target for control of the skin’s immune response. Exp. Dermatol. 17: 633-639 (2008) 18. Schonlau F.: The cosmetic pycnogenol. Appl. Cosmetol. 20: 241-246 (2002) 19. Toklu H.Z., Tunali-Akbay T., Erkanli G., Yuksel M., et al.: Silymarin, the antioxidant component of Silybum marianum, protects against burn-induced oxidative skin injury. Burn 33: 908-916 (2007) 18. Trivedi J.S., Krill S.L., Fort J.: Vitamin E as a human skin penetration enhancer. Eur. J. Pharma. Sci. 3: 241-243 (1995) |
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